July 9, 2009
perladipace
在天空部落發表於21:07:04 |
舟遊北竿 Kayaking in Mazu Islands
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[ 憶. 馬祖昔日戰地風情 ]
Reminiscence of the War Time
馬祖直到1994 年才戰地解除, 隨而發展的是觀光產業. 然而過去為戰地重地的許多遺跡, 在戰地風情的懷舊情感宣染下, 成了老一倍人探索過去的旅遊點, 年輕一輩人的戰地探險據點. 我們在大風大雨中來到了昔日的重要據點, 在一間砲房的牆上...
The land of intensive military activities and tension, Mazu was officially released from its "war zone" ID in 1994. It then becomes a tourism-focused chain of islands. For older-generaion visitors, this is a land that will remind them of the past. For the younger generation, this is an adventure through the mystery land with stories of...(continue reading...)
看到了這個有點好笑但一點也沒錯的提醒告示.
another time beyond their understanding. On a super rainy and windy morning, we set off to Stronghold No. 6. The photo above was a funny (but truthful) little sign reminding soldiers in an artillery room: 3 conditons for not firing their weapon: 1. Dont' fire when you can't see it. 2. Don't fire when you can't aim at it. 3. Don't fire when you don't think you will hit it.

早上還是下著雨. 本來計畫早上要到芹壁開始划獨木舟的.. 不過看風雨都那麼大, 只好先把下午的北竿導覽拉到早上. 坐著遊覽車經過了退潮的沙灘.
Originally we were going to start our day with more ocean kayak training in Qinbi but it was unbelievably rainy and windy. For safety reasons, we moved that to the afternoon and did the tour of Beigan. The photo above was taken from the tour bus when we were driving by a beach at low tide.

[ 06 據點 ] 海防作戰的前線.
Our first stop of the day was Stronghold No. 6. We were by the sea and the wind and rain showed no signs of stopping.

走下陡&風大&成了瀑布的樓梯到第六據點.
There are over a hundred of these Strongholds along the islands.

走樓梯沿路的景觀.
View of the other nearby islands.

有種好像風再大一點就會直接被吹進海裡的感覺.
If the wind were stronger, we could've have been swept into the ocean.

The fallen rocks (probably due to the heavy rain & wind for the past few days) outside of the entrance into Stronghold No. 6.

這些據點在95年時為了配合發展觀光, 開始進行整修.
在裡面還滿多地方在漏水, 想到當時的阿兵哥都要常駐在這(睡這) 就覺得當時的人還真可憐..
These strongholds have been renovated in 2006 to go with tourism development.
The whole Stronghold was pretty much like a cave in the mountain. So it was leaking almost everywhere. It's not hard to imagine what the soldiers had to live with when they had to stay here to fight.

在第六據點裡面從砲台看出去的景觀.
Viewing the area from one the "rooms" used to place the artillery.

裡面有些積水.. 所以我們還要 "涉水" 看景點. 據點裡也有許多 "精神標語". 這個應該算是我們最常聽到的吧.
At some parts in the Stronghold, it was.. "flooding" so we had to walk into that water and out. Don't even want to imagine what was in there. Inside the Stronghold, there are still propaganda reminding people why they're here fighting and living up with the condition of the time - this one is the most common "slogan" of the time: Counterattack and rescue our compatriots/comrades in China.
On the walls of the artillery room, there are still remains of the scribbles on the wall that were probably the instructions for using the weapons.

在這邊發現.. 地球真的是圓的.
The horizon viewed from another artillery room.

由上往下看的據點.
View of the Stronghold from above.

Along the coast.

[ 戰爭和平紀念公園 ]
原本也是軍事據點, 不過後來搖身一變成為軍事文物的展示區.
The Peace Memorial Park - it was originally one of the areas for military activities. But it was later on converted into an exhibition hall for weapons used during the Taiwan and China wars.

舅媽跟我們解說著這邊許多戰地的故事. 在這前線, 我們看到當時台海戰爭的緊張, 也看到了今日難能可貴的和平.
Inside the Exhibition Hall of Weaponery, our guide told us about the stories of the days of wartime.
Here, we see the intensity of the fear and horror at wartime . At the same time, we also understand that we should treasure the peaceful days that we now have.

文物館裡的擺示.

看到這個就忍不住笑出來了. 這邊還蒐集了滿多當時兩岸政府發出來的"傳單". 有些還是裝在一些罐子還是包起來讓它們隨波逐流漂到對岸. 國民軍那時也發了一些類似這樣的傳單 (但內容不一樣囉) 和一些民生必需品讓它們漂到大陸沿岸. 在缺乏民生用品的時代, 大家當然是搶著到岸邊撿這些裝著傳單的"包裹".
In the exhibition hall, there's an interesting collection of the political messages (or propaganda) on papers from both sides of the Taiwan Strait, trying to get the other side to surrender. This one shown above we think is one of the most hilarious ones (to us) - the way it's stated: "To all followers of Chiang Kai-shek, you are at the end of your luck. We hope you know better and lead your people to go against your leader to help your motherland."

F 131 - 第一艘共軍投靠國民軍的船
The first ship from China to surrender to the Nationalist government.

[ 壁山觀景 ] 但我們只觀到一片烏雲.
On a sunny day, you can see a spectacular bird-eye view of the Beigan island and its airport. But on a day like this, we can only see this.

橋仔村 - 一個神比人多的小漁村.
這個像火焰的牆 (封火山牆) 其實是用來 "防火"用的. 但也有人說這座廟有 "山" 牆或"水"牆可要看裡面供奉是哪位神明.
Qiaozi Village, a village with more gods than residents (since a lot of the residents moved out but a lot fo the temples built earlier remain), is a small fishing village with colorful traditional architecture.
This type of "flame" or "fire" shape of wall is commonly regarded as a "fire-proof" design to prevent the spread of wild fires. There's another type of architecture with the "water" design. Some say whether the temple has "fire" or "water" desgn depends on the god or goddess the temple was built for.

大黃魚! 聽說抓到這種大黃魚可賣到上千萬元呢!
These huge fish can worth a few million dollars TWD.

[ 橋仔漁村展示館 ]
漁業是這邊重要的產業. 這間小小的文物館展示了許多傳統漁村生活的點點滴滴, 還滿有懷舊的氣息.
The Ciaozi Fishing Village museum displays many of the things used by the people in this fishing village.

Earlier we mentioned there are these walls with the shape of flame, this is an example of a "water" shape. The side of the temple entrance(not seen here) is also painted in light blue.

北竿旅客服務中心附近的t重修過的古建築. 在這邊又可以看到 "解救大陸同胞"的標語了.
Near the Beigan tourist centre, you'll see these restored old houses. Here, you'll also see the sign telling people to save their compatriots in China.

坂里沙灘. 曾經花大錢整修為水上活動的大景點, 在一年後因原本的沙灘被侵蝕露出底下不是很 water-sport-friendly 的花崗石, 這邊就成了現在這副模樣. 等待著沙灘回來呀.
This used to be the beach with a lot of water activities until a typhoon or some natural process washed the sand away and expose the hard granite layer under. So this place stands as it is now, waiting to regain its beach and visitors.

誰說年輕人只愛試吃不買. 我們是又愛試吃又愛買. xP
大家繞著這個小圓桌轉啊轉的試吃海味.
When you're here, you should try some of the local snacks that people often buy to bring back to their friends, family or collegues. There's a large variety of dried things from the sea. We were all crowded around this small tasting table, trying out the different tastes.

很小巧又可愛的天后宮.
We passed by a small and lonely but colorful Mazu temple (Tianhou temple) on the way.

The guardian lion in front of the temple is so cute!!!

Outside of the small temple. Photo courtesy of the photo CD Angel sent to us. :)

北竿的西門町... 中午吃完中餐是午休時間. 我們就溜出去逛逛北竿的 "西門町" (在塘岐村). 看起來沒幾家店家吧...
We had some nap time after lunch so instead of napping, we went for a walk in the "busiest" area of Beigan. But as you can see... there's really not much to see & there's not even a lot stores either.

Our hotel was right outside of the Beigan airport and near the Mabi Bay where we did our flip-the-kayak-and-get-back-on training on the first day. I suppose these were made of the unused floaters on the fishing boats.

塘岐村還是有許多這樣的街景.
In the Tangqi Village where our hotel is located, there are still many propaganda messages (lke the ones you see more often in China now) here.

沿岳飛的名語錄都搬出來了.

到哪裡都可以看到很多阿兵哥 - 這也算當地的一種特色吧?
Everywhere you go, you'll see soldiers (mandatory for all Taiwanese guys to serve in the army for at least a year). Most guys prefer not to be the lucky ones going to the offshore islands like Mazu or Kinmen for military service.

路邊的標語.
More propagand on the street telling people to unite, to be loyal and efficient.

在附近的老街 - 空的殼.
許多安靜的小巷子裡還是可以看到許多過去繁榮的痕跡.
The faded store sign in one of the older streets in the "busy" district.

Related Posts:
1. [ Matsu ] Sleep with Weapons Ready before Dawn 1/5
2. [ Matsu ] The War Zone Stories 2/5
3. [ Matsu ] Ocean Kayak - Trail Run! We can see China! 3/5
4. [ Matsu ] Breaking the Waves and Kayaking in War Time Tunnels 4/5
5. [ Matsu ] The Picturesque Priate Village of Cinbi 5/5












