August 7, 2009
perladipace
在天空部落發表於20:44:44 |
China
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From Xi'ning onwards, we take the modern "Silk Road" and drive hundreds and hundreds of kilometers everyday. We stopped by the major cities/posts of trade along the way as they're often blessed with the treasures of the Silk Road's glorious days. It is... (continue reading...)
從西寧開始我們就沿著古人的絲路, 從有一片綠色的土地, 到一片看不見盡頭的黃土, 一路上...
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有著許多不同的驚喜!
Day 5 西寧 Xi'ning > 蘭州 Lanzhou
Along the way, you'd see the mountains here are not rocky or filled with greenery. They're all red.
從西寧開始的路是這樣的景觀.
I forgot how many hours it took us to get from Xi'ning to Lanzhou. When we finally got there, we were surprised to see such a large city in what we would consider to be in the middle of nowhere. It's also a fairy large industrial city.
我們開了一個早上到達蘭州, 聽說這可是在 5,000 年 (新石器時代) 就有人居住的遺跡.
本來還以為是另一個鄉下古城, 不過看到的卻是高樓大廈和繁華, 一點都不向是個在大漠裡的城市. 蘭州也是中國數一數二的工業大城之一.
從西寧開始的路是這樣的景觀.
I forgot how many hours it took us to get from Xi'ning to Lanzhou. When we finally got there, we were surprised to see such a large city in what we would consider to be in the middle of nowhere. It's also a fairy large industrial city.
我們開了一個早上到達蘭州, 聽說這可是在 5,000 年 (新石器時代) 就有人居住的遺跡.
本來還以為是另一個鄉下古城, 不過看到的卻是高樓大廈和繁華, 一點都不向是個在大漠裡的城市. 蘭州也是中國數一數二的工業大城之一.
蘭州有黃河流過, 岸邊有個黃河母親的現代藝術雕像, 但如果是特地來看這個, 我是覺得有點.. hmm..
By the Yellow River is a modern statue personifying the Yellow River as the Mother to the people here.
之後我們就去看蘭州比較 "大" 一點觀光景點 - 蘭州水車. 蘭州水車是建於明代 (1556年), 從那時至 1952 時黃河兩岸曾有 252 座水車.
Lanzhou is famous for its water wheels. The ones we saw in the Water Wheel park was built 400 years ago in the Ming Dynasty. It still works now.
在黃河畔我們看到另一個新奇但還滿恐怖的東西, 那就是羊皮筏子.
By the Yellow River, we saw something that looked "overly-exciting" for us to try. That is this little "float" made of tree branches and air-filled sheep skin.
他們就這樣隨波逐流下去了. 我們團裡只有一對夫妻敢嘗試, 領隊也只好跟去, 結果他上來時講到那筏還是看起來 "心有餘悸".. 因為那東西真的就是隨波逐流, 黃河的水流也不算慢, 如果遇到漩渦, 你就跟著打轉吧, 如果真的翻了.. 那就太恭喜了, 那水不只是濁而已, 還很臭!! x/
So people on these floats are basically drifting down the Yellow River with the river current. You don't even need to "row" it because the water flows so fast. We didn't dare to challenge it no matter how safe they said it is. After all... the water doesn't just look muddy... it also stinks... Can't imagine falling in that. The rest of the day would have been screwed.
So people on these floats are basically drifting down the Yellow River with the river current. You don't even need to "row" it because the water flows so fast. We didn't dare to challenge it no matter how safe they said it is. After all... the water doesn't just look muddy... it also stinks... Can't imagine falling in that. The rest of the day would have been screwed.
新的羊皮筏子. 就是把羊皮灌滿氣, 像氣球吧.
Making one of those sheep-skin floats. The skin basically just gets blown up like a balloon and placed under the wooden bars.
蘭州大水車.
Large + old water wheels.
We had congee hotpot for lunch.
中午來蘭州吃粥... 看起來像火鍋, 但火鍋的湯底是粥 (但看不到米).
看起來很好吃吧... 但你看一開始端上來的生食, 有些人就不太敢 try 啦.. (我是說我.. haha. )
中午來蘭州吃粥... 看起來像火鍋, 但火鍋的湯底是粥 (但看不到米).
看起來很好吃吧... 但你看一開始端上來的生食, 有些人就不太敢 try 啦.. (我是說我.. haha. )
下午繼續努力, 在艷陽下爬白塔山, 鳥瞰蘭州市.
After lunch, we walked across the Zhongshan Bridge to the Baita (White Tower) Hill. From high up there we could have a better view of Lanzhou.
After lunch, we walked across the Zhongshan Bridge to the Baita (White Tower) Hill. From high up there we could have a better view of Lanzhou.
在白塔山上有個這樣的塔, 是個成吉思汗時期的西藏喇嘛的塔. 在藏族來說, 塔葬是最高級的埋葬方式.
The tower on the hill was built to commemorate a Tibetan monk from the Yuan dynasty.
The tower on the hill was built to commemorate a Tibetan monk from the Yuan dynasty.
Around 4-5pm, we went to the Wuquan (5 Spring) Park. Rumour has it that a general from the Han Dynasty (2,000 years ago) was leading his troop through the area. The army couldn't move any faster as water shortage became a problem. So the general went around searching for wells or springs and he was able to "magically" find 5 springs at this mountain. Only 1 of springs from his time remains and water still comes out from there.
傍晚時分我們到達了五泉山公園. 據說這是漢朝大將霍去病遠征西域時, 路過這時因為長途跋涉, 供水不足, 他所帶領的兵都快不行了, 所以情急之下他就在山中"戳" 5 下, 接著泉水就湧出來了. 這本來是有五泉的, 但現在只剩這一泉了.
傍晚時分我們到達了五泉山公園. 據說這是漢朝大將霍去病遠征西域時, 路過這時因為長途跋涉, 供水不足, 他所帶領的兵都快不行了, 所以情急之下他就在山中"戳" 5 下, 接著泉水就湧出來了. 這本來是有五泉的, 但現在只剩這一泉了.
The spring from 2000 years ago. Other than this, I don't think the other things in the park is worth coming all the way for it. It's more like a place for locals to hang out in the afternoon.
兩千年前的古泉, 至今還在冒水.
說實在的, 這個 park 比較像是當地人下午來休閒的公園, 裡面滿滿都是人, & 條件來說也不是很好, 滿多地方都看起來有點髒亂.
Day 6 蘭州 Lanzhou > 武威 Wuwei > 張掖 Zhangyi兩千年前的古泉, 至今還在冒水.
說實在的, 這個 park 比較像是當地人下午來休閒的公園, 裡面滿滿都是人, & 條件來說也不是很好, 滿多地方都看起來有點髒亂.
蘭州 Lanzhou > 武威 Wuwei = 278 km
武威 Wuwei > 張掖 Zhangyi = 237 km
Leaving Lanzhou in the morning; crossing the Yellow River.
早上離開蘭州, 往西域繼續前進.
一路上有許多這樣的燒磚廠, 這邊就是土多!
There are a lot of brick factories along the way since they have abundant resource to use to make the bricks.
There were "sketchy-loooking" buildings like these with restaurants, hotels, or stores in general along the way. But I don't think we dare to stop by.
There are other historical/old buildings along the way that we could see in the distance.
天梯山石窟.. 那天居然下雨, 這邊聽說一年沒有幾天是下雨的! 而且還有點涼, 領隊就說: "這樣照片照回去沒有人相信你是來絲路!"
Then we arrived at the 1,600 years old Tiantishan Grotto. It was rainy and a bit chilly that day, which is very RARE and unlike the normal weather here. Our guide was joking that if this continues, when people see the photos we took later on, they wouldn't believe we were on the Silk Road!
A small "tunnel" for visitors built later on. You need to pass through here to get to see the huge Budda.
My wide-angle+vertical take of the huge statue.
My pieced-together panorama view of the statue. See the size of the stairs in relation to the statue and you'll kinda get an idea of how big it is.
我把幾張週邊的圖拼起來, 看階梯和欄杆就可以大概想像這佛像有多大了吧.
Our next stop was a Tomb from the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE). One of the most precious things they found in the tomb was a set of bronze statues. The main one with a galloping horse on a
flying swallow. It even became the "logo" for China tourism.
The bronze statues blown up to at least 6 times the original size. The height of the original ones are around the half the height of the horsemen on the ground.
放大的複製品.
雷神廟. On top of the Han Tomb is a temple for the thunder god. When people want to wish for rain, they would come to pray here.
這個東漢墓室是在 1969 年當地人在挖防空洞時發現的. 裡面是不能拍照的不然你可以看到這上千年的墓能存活到今日, 真的很不簡單. 墓室的圓弧"屋頂"全用磚塊堆砌而成, 沒有用到任何黏合的其他建料).
The entrance into the Han Tomb. This Tomb was found in 1969 when people were digging bunkers to prep for the war that was about to happen between China and Russia. The architecture of the tomb was quite eye-opening as the construction of the roof arches with bricks did not use any adhesives. It's an example of superb engineering. ( no photos allowed in there).
接著我們到了武威的文廟.
Confucious Temple in Wuwei.
這廟有太多的匾額了. 都快滿出來了. 這是一代一代放上去的, 而且也都逃過了文革的迫害.
這邊的也可以看到凡是有 "章" 的直線那一劃都有出頭, 也就是說古代考狀元等等都是用寫文章的方式, 能以一文熬出頭都是考生夢寐以求的啦.
This temple has a lot of these "banners" (usually a building would only have 1 above the main door & facing outside). This building has at least 30 of it from different time/dynasties.
This one was from the Nationalist era!
沒錯, 這是中國還有"中華民國"的時期留下來的.
沒錯, 這是中國還有"中華民國"的時期留下來的.
清代對 "明" 這個字特別敏感 (明朝 vs 清朝), 所以這邊的天下文明的 "明" 多了一橫.
This one was from the Qin dynasty.
西夏碑 - "漢夏合併" 的代表. 西夏 - 一個曾經被後人遺忘的王國.
In a museum outside of the temple was a stone with engravings from a lost kingdom - Western Xia Kingdom (11-12th century). People of that kingdom had their own language and texts but they were entirely wiped out so much of their lives became a mystery. There was this stone that combines elements of Han writing with Western Xia text.
This is what Xi'xia texts look like...If you think the current Chinese writing looks difficult, this looks even more complicated & still much of it remains a mystery.
這就是成了謎的西夏文字, 看起來夠難吧! 難怪大現在西夏文字仍有許多沒被解出來.
明代修建的萬里長城. 我們來這找廁所.. 但發現這邊真的 "滿地是黃金!" 而且恐怖的是... 都是人的...
We passed by a section of the Great Wall that were built in the Ming Dynasty. We were looking for the washroom... but we just realized there were human feces littered by the Great Wall...
從來沒有廁所這麼可怕.. 外面看不出來吧... 但是裡面, 真的.. 大家都看過超簡陋, 又古老的廁所, 但這次大家寧可在戶外野地上也不要進去.
This washroom by the Great Wall looked ok from the outside..but among all the OMG+scary washrooms we've encountered along the way, this one was the WORST one.Day 7 張掖 Zhangyi> 嘉裕關 Jiayu Gate> 酒泉 Jiuquan
張掖 > 酒泉 = 230 km
嘉裕關 > 酒泉 = 22 km
張掖大佛寺. 看起來真的是有點歷史了... 西夏時期的建築.
Zhangyi Temple from the Western Xia era.
There were LOTS of swallows flying in and out.
超多燕子在這座古廟盤旋.
The full view of the Budda is like this.
大佛寺裡的最大室內臥佛的全圖.
From the door, you can only see a small part of the Budda's belly (photo not allowed in there).
從正門看只能隱約看到佛像的一小部分 (裡面不能拍照).
On the road again.. as you see.. there was no more mountains or greenery. It's fields of yellow dust.
上路前往嘉裕關.
途中先去看一個魏晉時期的壁畫墓. 墓在哪呢? 就在照片 photo 指的那棟搭建的小屋下面.
四週這些平地可能都是墓, 因為這邊總共有 1400 座, 每座裡面都有個 "前廳', "正廳".. 等等. 1972-1979 挖的有 13 座. 我們只能看一座, 其他的都被列為保護和研究用. 下去看包包都要寄放或是乾脆放在遊覽車上.
We stopped by a group of underground tombs that were built in 220-419. There were a total of 1400 tombs here. Each tomb is like a tiny house underground. & What they all have in common is the spectacular colored wall paintings depicting the lives of the tomb owners. 13 were excavated between 1972 to 1979. We were only allowed to see 1 (& couldn't cary anything bigger than a wallet down there.. & no camera allowed).
下一站: 嘉裕關
Next Stop: Jiayu Gate
The Gate from the Ming Dynasty that basically marked the area outside of the gate as not under the rules of the emperor. It was built at a narrow point between two parallel(well.. sort of) mountain ranges.
Can you tell the difference betwen the old & new wall?
The faded door gods.
關內的戲台和躲大太陽的遊客.
There was a theatre stage in the gate area. (the gate is not just a gate, it's a huge area with multiple buildings).
武官和文官辦公地方.
The "office" for governors.
"甕中捉鱉" 就是這麼回事 - 讓入侵者攻進來再把他們困在這.
嘉裕關 - 最外面的城門. "多多關照"的關照其實就是從這邊沿用的, 因為當初進出關都需要用到關照.. 所以多關照也是有請協助"打通通路" (幫忙) 的意思.
The outermost gate of Jiayu Gate.
關外就是這樣一片黃古平原.. 也就是古戰場. 下面不知埋了多少層的屍骨....
Outside of the gate is a view like this. This flat area was also where most battles outside of the gate took place.
時間巨輪的痕跡.
The passage for horserider up the gate.
像是多出來的一塊磚吧? 不過這可是定城磚!
Spare brick? Rumour has it that if this brick is moved, the gate would be vulnerable to attack.
Spare brick? Rumour has it that if this brick is moved, the gate would be vulnerable to attack.
Inside the gate.
1. [ Silk Road ] From the Old Capital to the Edge of the Empire (Day 1-3)
2. [ Silk Road ] Tibetian Temples and the "Ocean" in a Desert (Day 4)
3. [ Silk Road ] Down the Yellow River, Ancient Tombs and Out the Middle Kingdom (Day 5-7)
4. [ Silk Road ] Camel-Riding in Desert and the Mysterious Dunhuang Grottos (Day 8-9)
5. [ Silk Road ] 45'C in Fire and Grapes, Mystery City and ...(Day 10)
6. [ Silk Road ] Tianchi Lake, Loulan Mummy Revisited & Back to the Capital (Day 10-13)
7. [ Silk Road ] The food, the W.C., and other things.
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